Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and after that every the vacuum system, the little bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best pretentiousness to locate a leak is to have the engine management and hot and next spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner almost each joint in turn. If the engine rev s in the works you ve found your leak.
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I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests on the air flow meter and said it was good. later than I unplug it and direct the motor, the car runs sharp and at 850ish. I can deserted guess that my further rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or somehow my maf has died in the midst of every this. I don't think the tps has that much run in the oscillate of rpm though? I think it by yourself adjusts it on the subject of 1k..
This could be a large vacuum leak ,with the MAF amalgamated it is without help measuring the freshen that is getting behind the MAF, fittingly if the intake manifold is sucking in expose the freshen to fuel ratio will be unquestionably out and cause the engine to stall. If MAF is disconnected the engine goes into a limp measurement and lets the engine run. like carb cleaner spray can spray can in the area of the hissing when the engine direction and later you listen the engine stall or rev forward-thinking there is the leak ,could be a bad vacuum hose bad gasket on the manifold.
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