Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and then all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best pretension to find a leak is to have the engine management and hot and subsequently spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner going on for each joint in turn. If the engine rev s taking place you ve found your leak.
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I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests on the ventilate flow meter and said it was good. in the same way as I unplug it and rule the motor, the car runs unfriendly and at 850ish. I can forlorn guess that my further rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or somehow my maf has died in the midst of all this. I don't think the tps has that much run in the swap of rpm though? I think it single-handedly adjusts it going on for 1k..
Hello the TPS does have an effect upon switching the car into idle mode correspondingly I'd recommend to make definite the throttle plate is 100% closed and not slightly grounded next carbon. and subsequently accustom yourself the TPS correspondingly that the IDL stick is continuous to the E2 glue in the same way as the throttle is closed, and edit circuit in the manner of the throttle is just cracked. Don't upset very nearly any voltages, the IDL admittance is the in point of fact important one.
Picture Schematics for sulzer engine diagram
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