Check the hose clips for tightness and examine the trunking for any cracks or splits and furthermore every the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best way to find a leak is to have the engine government and hot and later vaporizer lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner approaching each joint in turn. If the engine rev s happening you ve found your leak.
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I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests upon the expose flow meter and said it was good. bearing in mind I unplug it and control the motor, the car runs coarse and at 850ish. I can isolated guess that my further rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or somehow my maf has died in the midst of all this. I don't think the tps has that much rule in the rotate of rpm though? I think it unaided adjusts it roughly 1k..
This could be a large vacuum leak ,with the MAF similar it is by yourself measuring the air that is getting afterward the MAF, in view of that if the intake manifold is sucking in let breathe the expose to fuel ratio will be unconditionally out and cause the engine to stall. If MAF is disconnected the engine goes into a limp measurement and lets the engine run. next carb cleaner vaporizer spray in the area of the hissing when the engine executive and next you listen the engine stall or rev vanguard there is the leak ,could be a bad vacuum hose bad gasket upon the manifold.
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